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I am a native Californian who has extensively explored this entire state, including my native Southern California. I have visited many of the Deserts, Mountains, and Beaches always looking for beauty, knowledge and adventure. I favor backroads and byways over larger freeways and I am always looking for the unusual and the unique. I photographed all the pictures in the slide shows. I hope this is informative and a good read.
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I recently returned from a fantastic trip to Northern Arizona and Southern Utah. I had never been to many of these places, most notably Monument Valley and the numerous National and State Parks as well as the many Scenic Highways , byways and backways. Monument Valley is delightful, but be warned, if you wish to Photograph the monument from the Navajo Preserve--they close it well before sunset. We stay in Kayenta at the Hampton Inn and it was great. They even have decent southwest food at the hotel restaurant. We explore Monument Valley at sunrise which provides great light for photographing. Driving through the monument without a Native Guide is a big mistake because we cannot get out and explore this magnificent land. Live and learn. The
road to Utah is beautiful. We follow highway 163 north past Mexican
Hat and past the Valley
of the Gods (there is an interesting B&B
right in this valley). We take highway 261 up the Moki-Dugway
Switchbacks. These switchbacks
are not for the height challenged, by the way! At the top we miss Muley
Point because my husband was rather flustered from the hair raising
ascent...... Canyonlands National Parkis huge and we are only able to visit the Needles District and the Islands In The Sky District. The drive to the Needles is amazing, following a river through a verdant and lush valley. We hike Cave Spring Trail through slickrock and up ladders, passing Petraglyphs, an abandoned Cowboy retreat and the cave spring. This is the land of the weeping rocks! We stay in Moab for several nights. This town is not nearly as friendly as what I might have liked. It seems filled with self absorbed types and I am turned off by it. Still, there are a ton of things to do in and around Moab including Moab Movie Locations, A Rock Art Auto Tour, La Sal Mountain Loop Road and the infamous Slickrock Bike Trail. My favorite park so far is Arches National Park, right out of Moab. We spend an entire day just hiking around all the amazing arches. Don't miss the hike to Delicate Arch. It's a great sunrise hike. Sunrise and sunsets provide the best light for viewing and photographing. The Devil's Garden Area is abundant with interesting rock formations and canyons. We like the hike to Sand Dune Arch and Broken Arch. We veer off the main trail at Skyline Arch and spot a Deer. At sunset we hike to the Windows and I snap some great photos. Canyonlands'
Island in the Sky district is also right out of Moab. We don't spend too
much time here because of the height thing and decide to take another
dirt road filled with switchbacks and astounding views, called the Shafer-Potash
Road (Utah Scenic Byway 279). The
road to Capitol
Reef National Parkis lovely, we take the Bicentennial Highway
(95) across Glen
Canyon and the Colorado, crossing the northern tip of Lake
Powell at Hite.
The road leads past canyons and grazing lands and as we approach Capitol
Reef, the landscape gets more lush, we even spy a waterfall on the Fremont
River! The historic town of Fruita
is inside of the park. It is filled with fruit orchards all run by the
National Park Service, and when the fruit is in season you can pick your
own! Capitol Reef is named for its Capitol shaped domes and the reef like
color of the cliffs and rocks. Lots of reefs and swells here but no water. Our next destination is Bryce Canyon National Park. We follow Highway 12 Scenic Byway through Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, spying a Bald Eagle along the way. We detour on the Burr Trail Road in a effort to visit another Slot Canyon called the Upper and Lower Muley Twist Canyons but we never make it because of road construction. Bryce Canyon is a photographer's paradise, even more colorful than Capital Reef, and now there are an abundance of "Hoodoos" which are eerie freestanding rock shapes. This park is very high up--at its highest almost 10,000 feet. My husband has a particularly difficult time here because all the hikes involve heights that are, well, way too high! We leave without taking any hikes at all and decide to hit Lake Powell the following day. Our motel, a Best Western called Ruby's, is reasonably priced and we enjoy it. Beware of the food here which is terrible, Bryce lodge is a much better choice for meals! The drive to Page Arizona is quite scenic. After a visit to the picturesque Grosvenor Arch we follow Cottonwood Canyon Road, a delightful scenic Backway, which means dirt road! We are in the Grand Staircase Wilderness, following Cockscomb Ridge. Along this route we find the coolest Slot Canyon which is relatively easy to get into called "Cottonwood Creek" and we enjoy a long hike into the Canyon. The Canyon is pretty dry but filled with woody plants and wild flowers. We meet some other hikers and they point us towards more Slot Canyons in this area. I think I might enjoy getting into Canyoneering and Utah is certainly a great place to learn it. Towards the end of this route is a vast wasteland of nothingness. This is where they filmed The Planet Of The Apes. Lake Powellis quite delightful. We stay in Page at a decent hotel (Courtyard by Marriott) and decide to rent a powerboat on the lake the next day. The boat is costly--$150 for the entire day--and the gas costs a fortune at $2.60 a gallon. These tanks hold 50 gallons! It ends up costing us an additional $100 for gas, as well as some achy bones and muscles but the day is exciting and fun and definitely worth it! There are an incredibly large number of Canyons to explore but today we visit just two: Antelope Canyon and Navajo Canyon. The scenery is amazing. We get our boat stuck in a Slot Canyon and spend a half hour learning to park the boat at a floating bathroom! We laugh and laugh! We get lost most of the time and have to ask several boaters where we are! I cannot wait to go back but a word to the wise: don't bother renting any boats beyond 1-2 in the afternoon because the wind gets bad! That's when most people hurt themselves getting jostled around. We learned too late that it really helps to go slow!
Leaving Lake Powell we take US89 toward Kanab, skirting the southernmost
portion of Grand
Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Close to the Vermillion
Cliff's we take a side road ( mile marker 26) to another Slot called Buckskin
Gulch. Buckskin is the longest Slot in the Southwest and this
road leads to several places where you can easily access parts of it.
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We
just returned from a 23 day trip to British Columbia, the US Pacific Northwest,
and even a little Alaska! It was awe inspiring at every turn, I couldn't
stop sketching and painting everything I saw. I really liked the BC Visitors
Centers. Whether we needed a recommendation for a place to eat, an idea
of what to do and places to hike to, or just a rest stop, The BC Visitors
Center were all tops. I found some wonderful hand made wood bowls at an
outrageously good price at the Visitors Center in The Hazeltons, go if
you can! We
visited the Capilano Suspension Bridge, no doubt a tourist attraction,
but who could resist walking across a swinging suspension bridge, built
230 feet above the Capilano River back in 1889? My husband Ken, who is
forever being dragged to very high places despite his fear of heights,
crossed the bridge several times. The second time he even looked over!
Vancouver
Island was incredible. We spent a half day visiting the quaint towns of
Duncan and Chemainus. Duncan is the self claimed Totem Pole capital of
the world, but these Totems are not old, nor historic, although they are
interesting to see. We found a wonderful Gourmet Health Food store with
fresh salads that started us on a trend of health food and vegetarian
eating for most of the trip. Chemainus is an interesting seaside town
known for its murals; we followed the walking tour offered by the visitors
center. They also have an interesting museum. We
stumbled upon a wonderful place in Campbell River called "Painters
Lodge." We loved this place, got a fabulous room for $69, and took
their free water shuttle over to their sister resort on Quadra Island,
where we had the best Sushi I've even tasted. Our hotel in Port Hardy,
The Glen Lyon Inn, was right over the water with very nice rooms. At low
tide, we had 13 or more Bald and Golden Eagles right in front of our room,
feeding and scavenging for food. We sat there dumbstruck for hours, never
having witnessed these magnificent creatures at such close range, and
in such abundance. We took the Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, 15 hours up the Inside Passage on the "Queen of the North," I did not get bored for one minute. I spend the entire time out on the deck because the scenery was so beautiful and I was afraid I might miss something! We rented a room, thinking we would want to rest and grab a nap but that turned out to be a waste of money since we never used it. Still, the room was not bad at all, it had a window and a private bath and shower and I can easily see myself ferrying instead of cruising. See, I'm already thinking about next summer's trip! Aren't we travelers all like that? Prince
Rupert is a great town; it is basically in a Rain Forest. I kept hearing
about the endless rain but for the most part we had nice weather. We stayed
at the Crest Hotel, I highly recommend it. We visited Terrace in search
of the famed and rare Kermode Bear, a white colored "brown bear"
particularly abundant in these parts, but of course they eluded us completely!
We did spot several Brown and Black Bears, and I swear I saw a Grizzly
cross a road, but no Kermode bears! We also visited the North Pacific
Historic Fishing Village in Port Edward, it was quite lovely and informative
at the same time. Lots of great places to sketch and relax! http://www.kermode.net/terrace/spiritbear.html
http://www.yellowheadhighway.com/2001/june%2019/june19.htm The
road to Stewart (BC) and Hyder (Alaska) is called "Glacier Highway"
and it proved to elicit many gasps from both of us since we had never
seen Glaciers up close. Bear Glacier is a drive up glacier that sits on
a small lake filled with Icebergs, it's very scenic! We also passed several
hanging Glaciers before we reached Stewart, BC. This beautiful and very
isolated town sits right at the mouth of the Portland Fjord, and it is
filled with very proper and trim gardens. We ate a great restaurant called
"The Bitter Creek Café." It was fantastic. We were endlessly
surprised at the excellent restaurants we found in the most isolated places.
We spend the night at the best hotel in town, called The Kind Edward Motel.
They put the non-smokers on the fourth floor, a good thing, but with no
elevator it was a bummer to schlep the luggage up those stairs. This is
when I wished I had packed a little lighter :. http://www.stewart-hyder.com/
A
mile up the road from Stewart is Hyder, Alaska, billed as the friendliest
Ghost town in Alaska. It is a stark and humorous contrast with its hand
painted "Welcome to Hyder" sign and wild and messy gardens,
not less beautiful but certainly different. We are a month too early for
the Salmon, so we cannot watch the bears feed at the Bear Viewing Area,
but we do visit it as we head up to Salmon Glacier, another accessible
Glacier that is enormous. We only see the thumb of it and have to turn
back because the snow is too heavy still, but I can only imagine the size
of the whole Glacier. Some curious things about these two towns are that
they share the Canadian Mounties (no US police anywhere), as well as Canadian
Money since there are no American banks in Hyder, and its weird paying
because you pay in American dollars, but use Canadian money! While Stewart
is on Pacific Time, Hyder is on Alaska Time. And finally, we had to pass
through a Canadian Border as we left Hyder to go back to Stewart, although
we did not pass an American Border as we entered Hyder. All our border
crossings were easy and quick since we had our Passports, thanks to Ziners
good advice! http://www.virtualguidebooks.com/Alaska/SoutheasternAlaska/SalmonRiver/BearViewingPlatform.html
We visit all of the GitksanTotem Pole Villages along the Skeena River, including Kitwancool, Kispiox, Kitwanga, and Ksan. These Totems are authentic and old. In one Village they turned the Totems to face the road so people can just drive by and never get out. This amazes me, the original Tribe had the Totems facing the river so passersby could see their stories. I hate to see these things altered in any way. In the Hazeltons we spend some time discovering Ksan, a re-creation of a Gitksan community that has some great Totem Poles, Longhouses, Museum, and a Gift shop. Farther along the Yellowhead highway we came to Smithers, a quaint and scenic town at the base of several chains of mountains. The main street is lovely, with its Bavarian Motifs, and lined with quaint stores and restaurants. We were able to take some nice hikes since the Sun goes down after 11PM, we usually stayed out hiking until dark most nights. Twin falls is beautiful, it is an easy hike up to the viewing area and we have the trail all to ourselves. I carry my whistle in case we meet a bear, but no such luck! I have mixed feelings about that :. W also hike to an ancient fossil bed at Driftwood Provincial Park, but it is too hard to see the fossils on the shale from where we are, and we don't want to disturb the site and walk where we weren't supposed to go. We always respect the natural resources. Now I have this notion that I will be able to see the Northern Lights from up here, and I make it my business to get up every night and look. Although this interrupts my sleep, and I never see anything, I continue to get up each night and look! I really want to see those lights. We
make a decision to not go to the Rockies after we calculate that it would
require us to drive almost 400 miles a day for the rest of the vacation
and we want to relax a little. We take the Cariboo Highway at Prince George
and stop in Quesnal for a nice Greek meal and a little walk around town.
We end up driving on to Williams Lake and find a great Bed and Breakfast
type Inn right on the Lake. We do some Bird watching from our patio. It was so hot in the Cariboo, almost 90 degrees everyday! I live in southern California, it's always hot here, and I was so looking forward to cool weather. It seems that every time I go to the Pacific Northwest, it becomes unseasonably warm. We decide to head back to Vancouver, and the somewhat cooler air. Its terrible how with age, I cannot tolerate the hot weather at all. We drove the Sea to Sky Highway past Whistler, following the Glacial Fjord that leads to Vancouver. What an awesome drive, we were blown away by the magnificent views and sweeping scenery. We stopped in Whistler but it seemed like such a built up place, and it reminded me of Vail and Aspen in that it was very commercial, very fake, and very expensive. Not my kind of place at all, unless I am skiing. On
our way back to Los Angeles we stopped in Post Angeles ( take the ferry
folks, the drive is chalked full of traffic jams and takes all day). We
visited Hurricane Ridge, Sol Duc falls, and of course the Hoh Rainforest.
We also stayed at our favorite Seaside city in Washington called Ocean
Shores. Ocean Shores smells wonderful, and there is a beach here that
you can drive on, an oddity for us since we never get to do this in California.
We also visit Fort Canby where they have a Lewis and Clark Interpretive
Center which was very interesting. http://www.oceanshores.org/
We
cross the Columbia River at Astoria and head for Fort Clatsop, another
Lewis and Clark historic site which Pizza
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